MILLINER

A hat is an exceptional piece of craftsmanship. There are two trades related to it: hatters and milliners.

A short history of hats

Over the centuries, men and women have worn hats for utilitarian, social and stylistic purposes. Pharaohs wore hats as a symbol of power and sacredness. The ancient Greeks wore the petase, a round felt or straw hat worn by travelers for protection, while in Ancient Rome, freed slaves proudly wore the pileus. This one is shaped like a bonnet and made of felt. It is said to have inspired the shape of the traditional Phrygian cap. In the Middle Ages, hats were worn in the countryside by peasants to protect themselves on rainy days. Wealthy families and nobles, meanwhile, wore them proudly to show off their wealth, which could be seen in the materials used.

Over the ages, hats have taken on many different forms: the skullcap, the sugarloaf hat, the musketeer’s hat, the tricorne, the capeline, the toque, the bowler hat, and many others. It became a political marker or a symbol of belonging to a community or movement.

The golden age of the hat was in the 19th century. At that time, milliners and hatters were present in almost every town and village in France. Hats were the fashion accessory of the day, to be changed and personalized, unlike clothes, which were kept for longer.

The milliner

It’s important to distinguish between milliners and hatters. Hatters tend to produce to a male clientele, making mass-produced hats. He can work on wooden or aluminum shapes. The milliner, on the other hand, creates hats for women, made-to-measure and in limited series. He or she takes his or her customer’s requirements into account, and tailors each piece to suit the customer’s personality, face shape or fashion.

The milliner’s work is divided into several phases. To begin with, he or she designs models according to his or her inspiration or the customer’s request. He or she then builds the pattern or selects the appropriate shapes to obtain the desired volume. Next comes the choice of fabric and materials, usually felt, straw or woven fabrics. He or she then shapes the materials on his or her molds and finishes with edge and waist trims before adding the trim.

Nelly Bichet, 2023 Fondation Rémy Cointreau’s laureate, is a milliner. Since the beginning of her career, she has been working in her own workshop, making bespoke pieces. Today, there are very few milliners in France. She remains one of the few to practice this craft. However, if you are interested in this know-how, Nelly Bichet is also involved with APPH, a collective project offering vocational training courses, including a milliner’s CAP.

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