SAVOIR-FAIRE OF

JEWELLERY

Short jewellery history

Body ornaments have always existed in human history. During prehistoric times, our ancestors have worn small jewels made from natural elements such as claws, bones, teeth or shells. Gradually, pearls, stones and gems made their appearance, followed by new metals such as gold. These discoveries led to the emergence of techniques such as goldsmithing.

The Egyptians jewelled themselves both during and after their lifetime because they considered these objects as sacred. This consideration carried on Medieval times but with religious iconography. During the Rennaissance period, artistic inspirations have changed. Secular jewellery with natural patterns such as leaves, flowers or fruit appeared. By the 18th Century, jewellery was at the height of its popularity.

During the first Industrial Revolution, the entire market has changed and mass production democratized jewellery. During the World Wars, gold was mobilized, encouraging the use of less precious metals such as copper and brass. Since then, jewellery has come a long way, but history is still being made as these artworks become fashion accessories.

Jewellery making

In France, there are two types of jewellery making.

The first type refers to the creation of jewellery using all types of materials, whether precious or not. The craftsman uses gold, silver, platinum, brass, copper or other synthetic materials, and his pieces are produced in large numbers.

The second type, on the other hand, creates limited series or even one-off pieces. The craftsman sets off the stones with precious metal mountings. Each piece created by her or him is first researched and then drawn. This illustration represents the complete object, with the choice of materials and stones. Thanks to new technologies, she or he can make a 3D model before creating the wax model and mold. Next comes the casting, the creation of the jewel’s body in a chosen precious metal. The jewel is then sent to the gem-setter, who attaches the stones to the structure. At the end of this stage, the jeweller recovers the piece for polishing, then punching.

Alix Dumas is a jeweller who creates one-off pieces or very limited editions. Concerned with the rational use of materials, she uses Fairmined-labeled gold and favours renewable or recycled materials. Her diamonds are old, and the fine and precious stones are produced in a short production. Each stone is set on her models by a gem-setter with whom the craftswoman works closely. In the end, Alix Dumas wants to master the entire production chain for her jewellery, which is why she is training with the gem-setter to learn the crucial and delicate step of setting stones.

If you would like to become a jeweller, start with a CAP in jewellery and choose your option! To find out more, click here.